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I designed this cowl while staying in a lovely little village in France, called Beaumont.
You will need:
22-24” 4.5mm circular needle
22-25” 5mm circular needle
170 metres DK yarn
one stitch marker
cable needle
tapestry needle
This makes a cowl with a 24” circumference, to make it larger or smaller simply increase or decrease by 12 sts, but this size should fit everyone.
Using 4.5mm needle CO 156 sts using cable CO, join for working in the round and remember to place the stitch marker!
K2, p2 rib for four rounds.
Change to 5mm needles.
Rows 1, 2, 3, and 4: *K6, p1, k4, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Row 5: *C4f, k2, p1, c4f, p1, repeat to end of round.
Rows 6, 7, 8, and 9: Same as round 1.
Row 10: *K2, c4f, p1, c4f, p1, repeat to end of round.
Repeat these 10 rows four times, then repeat row 1 four times.
Change back to 4.5mm needles and k2, p2 rib for five rounds.
BO using a 5mm needle – this will help the rib to fan out and fit on your shoulders better.
Weave in ends and you're done!
Fits a head that is approximately 22.5 inches around (but is very stretchy, and fits smaller heads just fine) and is knitted flat and seamed afterwards. For a slouchier fit, change to a bigger needle size on the first row after the rib.
Tension: 4 inches = 11 sts in k1, p1 rib.
You will need:
5 mm needles
Chunky yarn (about 112 metres of Sirdar Click Chunky)
Pattern:
CO 62 sts.
K1, p1 rib for about an inch.
The next 2 rows are the set up rows. I’ve had some messages about how to do the first set up row, so I decided to write it all out to make it a bit easier to understand.
First set up row:
(RS) P1, k1, p2, k2, kf&b, k4, kf&b, k3, p2, k1, p2, k2, kf&b, k2, kf&b, k1, kf&b, k2, p2, kf&b, p1, k2, kf&b, k2, Kf&b, k1, kf&b, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, kf&b, k4, kf&b, k3, p2. You should now have 73 sts.
Second set up row:
(WS) K2, *p13, [k5] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 4 sts, k4.
This means you K2, then p13, k5 three times, then p13 once. You should now have 4 sts left, k4.
Pattern starts here:
P1, k1b, p2, *k4tog, (YO, k1) 5times, YO, k4tog, [p2, k1b, p2[ repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2.
K2 *p13, [k5] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 4 sts, k4.
P1, k1b, p2, *k13, [p2, k1b, p2] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, to last 2 sts, p2.
K2 *p13, k5 repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Repeat these 4 rows until piece measures about 6 or 7 inches in length (the longer it is, the slouchier it is).
Begin crown shaping (only 17 rows left):
1. P1, k1b, p2tog, *k4tog, (YO, k1) 5times, YO, k4tog, [p2tog, k1b, p2tog] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 66 sts on the needle.
2. K2 *p13, [k3] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 3 sts, k3. 66 sts.
3. P1, k1b, p1, *k2tog, k9, k2tog, [p1, k1b, p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 58 sts.
4. K2 *p11, [k3] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 3 sts, k3. 58 sts.
5. P1, k1b, p1, *k3tog, YO, k2, YO, k1, YO, k2, YO, k3tog, [p1, k1b, p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 58 sts.
6. K2 *p11, [k3] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 3 sts, k3. 58 sts.
7. P1, k1b, p1, *k11, [p1, k1b, p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 58 sts.
8. K2 *p11, [k3] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 3 sts, k3. 58 sts.
9. P1, p2tog, *k3tog, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog, k3tog, [p3tog] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 35 sts.
10. K2 *p7, [k1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, k2. 35 sts.
11. P2 *k7, [p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 35 sts
12. K2 *p7, [k1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, k2. 35 sts.
13. P2 *k3tog, YO, k1, YO, k3tog [p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 27 sts
14. K2 *p5, [k1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, k2. 27 sts.
15. P2 *k2tog, k1, k2tog, [p1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, p2. 19 sts.
16. K2 *p3tog, [k1] repeat from * omitting between the [ ] on the 3rd repeat, to last 2 sts, k2. 11 sts
17. K1 *k2tog, repeat from * 5 times. 6 sts.
Cut a long tail, and using a sewing needle thread the yarn through the 6 sts and pull tight.
Seam and weave in ends.
Free pattern for a modern, masculine looking wristband knitted with Turkish Rib. Although I'm sure if you used pretty wool it could look feminine too!
You will need:
4mm straight needles
Less than half a ball of DK yarn (would be nice to use some luxury yarn for this, sadly I don’t have any luxury yarn so I used Sirdar Escape DK)
Tension/gauge:
About 10 sts to 2 inches.
Pattern makes a wristband about 7 inches in diameter (if you need a bigger or smaller size, just CO more or less sts – but make sure it’s a multiple of 2.) I recommend knitting 4 rows of K2, p2 rib and slipping it off the needle. If it fits your writs you’re good to go, if not, CO again with more sts.
CO 32 (use cable CO if you like, I made one with and one without and with a project this small I don't think it really matters).
K2, p2 rib for 3 rows.
K row.
P1, *p2tog, yrn; rep from * to last st, p1
K1, *yf, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1
Rep last two rows 6 times (or until desired length).
P row.
K12, p2 rib for 3 rows.
BO loosely (I use needles a size or two up as my BO is quite tight).
Sew together into a tube and weave in ends (NB when it’s finished it’s not rectangular, it’s more of a parallelogram; just make sure you seam it the right way!)
Wear with style, or give away as a last-minute gift.
*Tro means ‘turn’ in Welsh, the Turkish Rib turns around your wrist as your wear it. It is pronounced to rhyme with ‘floor’.
I made some of these for my Mam’s 56th birthday, she loved them, and has started making some as gifts for her knitting friends. They are also super easy to make!
Use any wool that you like, and pretty much any size needles. I used DK with 3.5mm double pointed needles.
You will need:
Set of 4 dpns (whatever size you’re used to)
Yarn (whatever type goes with your chosen needles)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
A spare hour or two
Okay here we go:
CO 30 sts. I always cast all my sts onto 1 ordinary needle, then transfer them to the double points as needed. I also CO 1 extra st, then knit the extra st and the first st together.
Divide the sts as 10 on each needle, join, then K 1 round.
K2, P1, K4, P1, K2 – for three rounds.
K until piece is about 1 ½ inches long.
Begin decreases:
K2, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2.
K 1 round.
K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1.
K1 round.
K2, K2tog, K2.
K2, K2tog, K1.
K1, K2tog, K1.
K1, K2tog.
You’ll now have 2 sts on each needle, cut the yarn leaving a long tail and thread through remaining sts, remove the needles and pull to draw tight. Weave in the yarn.
Now turn it inside out.
Pick up sts along a line, 1 sts every other purl bump.
Slip the first sts of every row, and then stocking sts until piece measure approx 5 inches / 13cm.
Garter stitch (knit every row) for another 2 inches / 6cm.
Cast off (bind off) leaving a long tail.
Now roll the long strip up like a swiss roll, and using the tail of yarn, sew closed at the end which is the bottom of the cup.
Now you turn the cup inside out, push a knitting needle through the middle of the flower and out of the end of the cup, pull down all the way and…
Presto! You have a flower. Make loads and put them in a vase.
